Why does my crank creek

If your brake pads are in good shape and toed in and still squeaking, it may be because residue has built up on the rims. Clean them with a solvent, such as lighter fluid and then lightly sand them with medium emery cloth to scuff up the surface of the rims and break up any rubber deposits on the rim. The right one is turned clockwise to tighten the left is turned counterclockwise.

Look for a cleat tensioning screw on the pedal and tighten it to remove the looseness. Another clunk when pedaling is caused by a pump brushing the crank arm on each pedal stroke.

Pumps are often made of plastic so you might not think it can cause a noise, but it can. The spokes cross each other and can touch over time, causing the spokes to wear.

This can lead to them getting very dry and to start clicking as you roll down the road and the weight of the spokes can make them move slightly and click. Solution: To stop the noise, apply a drop of oil at each spoke intersection. Then go around and squeeze pairs of spokes with your hands, which will let the oil work between the spokes.

Finish by wiping off any excess lube. I love this lube and has great reviews on Amazon. If yours are held on by nuts in the sides of the crank arms you can also remove the crank arms by riding the bike, but you must do this very carefully to avoid damaging the crank arms.

Then ride a loop on flat ground around your neighborhood so you stay close to home. Pedal with regular pressure. Tighten pedals into crankarms. The torque typically recommended is inch-pounds, which is about 50 pounds of effort hold a wrench six inches from the pedal. Pedal bearings can also creak. Spin the pedal and listen for noise. Different makes of pedals have different bearing service options. For more detail see Pedal Installation. The bottom bracket may not be properly secured into the frame.

Most bike frames use a threaded bottom bracket shell. If the bearing cups or retaining lockring are not tight, there may be movement between the internal and external threads. Listen for dry links by spinning the chain in a repair stand. Lubricate as necessary, with a drop of lubricant on each roller and rivet. Look at each and every rivet to check misalignmet in the chain plates. Inspect for twists in side plate, or burrs, cuts or other damage to the side plates.

Place chain in a gear combination that relaxes the rear cage, and spin chain backwards. If the chain hops as it passes of the pulley wheels, it may have a tight link. The two pulley wheels of the rear derailleur spin as the chain turns. Use a light lubricant to quiet them. Creaking can be the result of loose spokes in the rim. Spoke may be moving in the rim or spokes may rub one another at the spoke interlace. In either case, increase spoke tension, using a spoke tension meter if possible.

For more detail see Wheel Truing. Some rims are made with a hollow section, and junk can collect in this hollow area causing a rattling. If there seems to be a creaking when the handlebars are turned, inspect the housing end caps where they enter the frame. These end caps are often metal, and may creak inside the frame fitting as the housing is moved side to side. Lubing is a temporary fix. Pedals : Lube all the points where your cleats make contact with the pedals.

Also, remove them from the crank arm with a pedal wrench, then grease the threads and reinstall. Remove each bolt with an 8mm hex wrench or 14mm socket wrench, then grease and retighten them. Seatpost : Remove and grease.

Corrosion can form between the seatpost and frame, making a clicking sound. Seat : Tighten the seat binder bolt and grease the seat rails and clamp bolts. The seat may be far away from the bottom bracket, but the noise can transfer through the bike. If you've checked the above, and you still hear a persistent creaking, it's time to work on the bottom bracket. Keep in mind, it's important to use the correct tools as mentioned below.

Trying to make do with common tools like locking pliers, slip-jaw pliers, and adjustable wrenches can end up stripping your bottom bracket and do more harm than good. Find the bracket you have, then follow the steps to fix it. Bottom bracket creaking only when pedaling hard. Ask Question. Asked 6 years, 2 months ago. Active 5 months ago. Viewed 52k times. Things that I have done so far, yet the problem remains: Changing pedals, regreasing their threads and making sure they are tightened.

Tightening chaining bolts. Replacing the actual crankset. Taking the crankset out, cleaning all the old grease and regreasing. Making sure the crank arm is tightened correctly. Improve this question. Worked for me once. Add a comment. Active Oldest Votes. Improve this answer. I just posted that for another problem that I had the same issue. Grease didn't solve mine thought. Had to crank down on them.

Out of curiosity who made the wheels? Wheels are Reynolds, but I'm running aftermarket titanium skewers, I think it's a problem with the design of the skewers and not the wheels. You might not even need to grease them.

Last time I had creaking in time with my pedalling, cleaning the dirt from the rear dropouts fixed it.